Unlike the Reverso or ATC Guide, the Mega Jul requires the belayer to send the ropes up from the keeper-cable side of the device rather than toward the keeper cable. Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading the rope correctly. In addition to the brake-assist (“thumb mode”) using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or “guide mode” for belaying climbers from above. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. Weighing only 65 grams, it’s lighter than Black Diamond’s 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso.

The keeper cable is aided by a thumb hook that juts out from the brake side of the device. I was eager to get my own and put it through the rigors of daily guiding work.Īt first the Mega Jul appears to be another plaquette-style belay device with two slots for double-rope rappels, an external “ear” for auto-block mode, an unlocking eye and a keeper cable. After brief instruction, I was impressed with both its performance and potential. This changed last summer when I sampled Edelrid’s Mega Jul while climbing in Clear Creek Canyon, above Golden, Colorado. I’ve sampled nearly all of the variations out there, but keep coming back to my trusty favorites for both recreational and guiding use. But, at least to me, it feels like many of the so-called improvements are superfluous and clumsy. These days, it feels like everyone is coming out with a “new” belay device that’s touted as somehow better than its predecessors.

Edelrid jul atc belay device